The internet is easy to use to learn about parasitic organisms that infect horses, how to detect them, and what options are available to eliminate the problem. You'll find horse wormers that use tested chemicals to kill internal parasites and natural, chemical-free preparations. Pasture-management methods are important, as well.
The number of organisms that live at least part of their lifespan inside horses is daunting. There are large and small strogyles, tapeworms, bots, and ascarids (roundworms). Less common but still potential problems are lungworms, threadworms, pinworms, hairworms, and large-mouth stomach worms. Fecal and blood tests can tell owners which parasites are present in their animals' systems.
There are also physical signs of moderate to heavy infestation. Any time a young horse on adequate feed and good pasture doesn't grow rapidly, play hard, and look good, worms should be one of the first suspects. Horses with dull coats, lack of energy, lack of condition, frequent bouts of colic, and diarrhea may be exhibiting signs that parasites are robbing them of nutrition.
Owners should know which worms are prevalent in their locality. These may change with the seasons. For example, bot flies lay their yellow eggs on legs, chest, and underbelly in the summer. The eggs are ingested by the horse when they scratch themselves, and the larvae hatch inside the stomach. This is not a problem that early spring worming needs to address. Overgrazed pastures lead to more reinfestation, so worming will have to be more frequent.
There are both chemical and non-chemical ways to keep animals healthy. Chemical wormers are targeted; in other words, they are effective against certain kinds of worms. Some broad-spectrum worming agents kill many species; Ivermectin is one generic name for a compound that combats many different parasites. It's important to read the labels or get a vet's advice when choosing a wormer; not all of them work against tapeworms, for example.
Alternative means include pasture management as well as herbal formulas and homeopathy. Rotating pasture is always helpful; it's best if horses are off a field for six months to give larvae a chance to die off. Mowing exposes larvae to predators, as does dragging to break up manure piles. The best way to keep pastures free of parasites is to pick up droppings. Of course, bot flies lay their eggs on the horse rather than in droppings, so you still need to be careful.
Natural products include diatomaeceous earth, a powder made of fossilized plankton which abrades worms inside the digestive tract without side effects. There are also herbal formulas and homepathic remedies. Products of both chemical and alternative formulation come in liquids, powders, pellets, and pastes.
Addressing parasite problems is an essential part of regular care. Even those who keep their fields parasite-free need to have regular fecal tests done to make sure some new threat has not crept in. It's a complicated subject but one that is easily researched online if you don't want to depend on your veterinarian's knowledge.
Knowing why, when, and how to worm horses is an important skill for those who are responsible for keeping them in tip top health.
The number of organisms that live at least part of their lifespan inside horses is daunting. There are large and small strogyles, tapeworms, bots, and ascarids (roundworms). Less common but still potential problems are lungworms, threadworms, pinworms, hairworms, and large-mouth stomach worms. Fecal and blood tests can tell owners which parasites are present in their animals' systems.
There are also physical signs of moderate to heavy infestation. Any time a young horse on adequate feed and good pasture doesn't grow rapidly, play hard, and look good, worms should be one of the first suspects. Horses with dull coats, lack of energy, lack of condition, frequent bouts of colic, and diarrhea may be exhibiting signs that parasites are robbing them of nutrition.
Owners should know which worms are prevalent in their locality. These may change with the seasons. For example, bot flies lay their yellow eggs on legs, chest, and underbelly in the summer. The eggs are ingested by the horse when they scratch themselves, and the larvae hatch inside the stomach. This is not a problem that early spring worming needs to address. Overgrazed pastures lead to more reinfestation, so worming will have to be more frequent.
There are both chemical and non-chemical ways to keep animals healthy. Chemical wormers are targeted; in other words, they are effective against certain kinds of worms. Some broad-spectrum worming agents kill many species; Ivermectin is one generic name for a compound that combats many different parasites. It's important to read the labels or get a vet's advice when choosing a wormer; not all of them work against tapeworms, for example.
Alternative means include pasture management as well as herbal formulas and homeopathy. Rotating pasture is always helpful; it's best if horses are off a field for six months to give larvae a chance to die off. Mowing exposes larvae to predators, as does dragging to break up manure piles. The best way to keep pastures free of parasites is to pick up droppings. Of course, bot flies lay their eggs on the horse rather than in droppings, so you still need to be careful.
Natural products include diatomaeceous earth, a powder made of fossilized plankton which abrades worms inside the digestive tract without side effects. There are also herbal formulas and homepathic remedies. Products of both chemical and alternative formulation come in liquids, powders, pellets, and pastes.
Addressing parasite problems is an essential part of regular care. Even those who keep their fields parasite-free need to have regular fecal tests done to make sure some new threat has not crept in. It's a complicated subject but one that is easily researched online if you don't want to depend on your veterinarian's knowledge.
Knowing why, when, and how to worm horses is an important skill for those who are responsible for keeping them in tip top health.
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